Grenache is one of the most exciting varieties in the country. Australia is blessed with a wondrous resource of old vine Grenache and it’s only in the last decade or so that this historically maligned grape has gained the recognition it deserves. The Yalumba Vine Vale Grenache 2017 is more evidence.

From a block planted in 1949 it taps into the celebrated ‘Barossa Pinot’ mode. Mid-weight, but not lacking in ripeness, with spice (from 35% whole bunches) adding a layer of aromatics to the pretty red fruit. It’s even, it’s exuberant and finely tannic with sandy Grenache tannins and a sense of balance. At every corner this feels right, in a pre-ordained fashion – as if it was always meant to be, the flavours perfectly formed at an alcohol you don’t see in typical Barossan reds. High-quality medium-bodied wine that is thoroughly delicious and compellingly balanced.

Best drinking: now to fifteen years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $35. Would I buy it? Yes.