Welcome to another instalment of ‘these are all the Burgundies I’ve tasted recently’, a collection of indulgent tasting highlights from my visit to the Grand Jours de Bourgogne 2026 (a week-long wine fair in this famed French wine region in early March). We’ve gone from endless Chablis through Vosne mega-wines, explored the value joys of Outer Burgundy, remembered why I love Volnay and Pommard, and much more.

For this penultimate series post, I’m going into the white wine deep end, with a look at some of the Chardonnay heroes from the village of Meursault, plus a sprinkle of goodness from Montrachet. A word of warning – prepare the Amex now; this is going to get expensive.

How do you make steely, just-bottled white Burgundy from a cool vintage look even more razor-sharp? Serve it in a Meursault shed just days after the end of winter.

So it was when I rocked up to day six of this Grand Jours de Bourgogne adventure, walking into another tonnellerie (the Tonnellerie Damy if you’re playing Google Maps spotto at home) with icy breath and jacket buttoned right up.

It didn’t hurt the wines, though. I don’t think anything can. Here, the occasionally angular (or perplexingly forward) mercurial brilliance of the 2024 Burgundian vintage was playing centre stage, jostling with the power and weight of the rather classic 2023 harvest (please, read vintage context here and here) for a pretty grand demonstration of Chardonnay magnificence.

The scene was set early. I tried the Bouchard wines below as a first taste, and it was like a bolt of pure electricity. I always second-guess these warmup wines because I just get excited (‘ooh, wine. How good is wine?’) but floated back five wineries later to confirm that I wasn’t delusional. The fire did not go out.

Actually, the only regret is that I didn’t give these wines enough time. It was crowded, the clock was ticking, and everywhere I looked, another brilliant Chardy was winking at me. Sorry if the tasting note truncation is at high levels.

The 2024 wines in this assortment really are worth the hype. Yes, it was a less-than-easy vintage, with wildly variable yields and occasionally quality. But in the top plots – g’day Genevrières and Perrières – and the top makers, the wines are so bloody compelling.

Not just Meursault either – you’ll also see a few bottles from the neighbouring village of Montrachet in this Meursault collection, too, tasted over the course of my week, included here because like-with-like.

Finally, the obligatory caveat about scoring – please don’t compare the numbers below with any but other Burgundian Chardonnay. Also, I have no pricing, and don’t really want to know, as I’ll probably just get scared. But I’d also say that some of the basic village-level Meursault wines here are probably the go for anyone who baulks at spending $AUD400 on a bottle of white wine. Let’s go:

10 of the best wines from this selection

• Domaine Bachey-Legros Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Les Petits Clos Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru 2023

• Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Perrières 1er Cru 2023

• Domaine Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2009

• Domaine du Cerberon Meursault Clos des Cras 1er Cru 2023

• François Mikulski Meursault 2024

• Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru 2023

• Domaine Latour-Giraud Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru 2024

• Domaine Marc Rougeot Meursault Montagne Saint-Christophe 2023

• Domaine Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2024

• Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault Genevrières 1er cru 2024