TN: Blue Pyrenees Sauv 2008, Terra Nova Pinot 2006, Blue Pyrenees Reserve Red 2002

(Pyrenees, Vic) Stelvin Luxe , $18

Victorian straight Sauvignon Blanc’s – I can think of only a handful of Yarra examples that I would recommend, the rest fall into the ‘grassy, fresh but boring’ category. The question is why?

Anyway, this is very light yellow in colour, showing grass, gooseberry and some ferment characters on the nose. Its clean, fresh and a little volatile. On the palate it is surprisingly blocky, with lemon and citrus characters that sit like a big wedge of acid bound fruit. Its wound up in itself at the moment, but I’m not sure whether the definition will ever come – it may just get broader. In fact the whole package feels strained and hard. Crisp and clean finish at least adds some redemption. Not for me. 15.5

Terra Nova Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2006 (Wairarapa, NZ) Screwcap, $22

Trying to find more information on this wine is like panning for gold in the bath (an amusingly futile exercise, unless you bathe in gold). Still, the back label suggests it comes from Masterton which is just outside of Martinborough, NZ.

This has a lovely meaty, stewed cherry & spice nose, with a quite classic Pinosity to it. On the palate it is meaty, medium bodied and slightly chewy. The whole affair is quite developed, but actually the more I contemplate whats in the glass, the more I like it. Its real Pinot and at a very fair price. Good form. 17.3

Blue Pyrenees Reserve Red 2002 (Pyrenees, Vic) Cork, $45

This is the last of the Blue Pyrenees in the box and its been an interesting delve into some varied wines that all show a clear stamp of terroir to them. This is the most impressive wine of the lot and a short essay on the benefits of ageing with this wine style.

A deep dark red colour with just a trace of bricking. On the nose its a classic Victorian Shiraz – tar, blackberry and loads of eucalypt. Its a lovely nose of real appeal. The palate similarly shines in a perfectly balanced, medium bodied framework. Its minty, firm and red berry laden, with just the right mix of syrupy fruit and real tannins. There is no greenness, but its distinctively cool climate and dry. Complex & enjoyable & I think this would go even better with a pepper steak. Some years ahead of it too, where it will develop attractively – one of those wines that will develop, not just soften, in the cellar. 18.5