Wittmann Estate Riesling Trocken 2007 (Rheinhessen, Germany)
Screwcap, $30

Of all the German dry Rieslings consumed recently, this came across as the ‘driest’ – the most traditional dry Riesling and certainly the least expressive of the recent examples I have had the pleasure of trying (more German Rieslings here). This is indeed a wine for the future, with all the elements just needing time to come together. This coms off one of Germany’s first organic vineyards.

Quite green gold in the glass, the nose is honey suckle, lime and slate – its a minerally nose, like crushed up rocks. The palate though is the star -it opens with some upfront sweetness, which seems sugar sweet as opposed to fruit sweet, but it is lovely, candied and well integrated. The palate then draws out long, lean and citrussy, finishing with acidity that is almost painful in its intensity – searingly, hard core limey acidic, but in a natural acid framework. Its very dry and almost a little unwielding, but the structure here is to die for. Will reward the patient. 17++