Mitolo Rose and various Champagnes

Mitolo Jester Sangiovese Rose 2008
I like Ben Glaetzer’s Mitolo wines – high quality, ultra modern South Australian reds of character and cult style. The packaging is similarly top notch, the labels quirky and the whole operation is smart stuff. However this wine did not move me at all. Its the perfect pretty colour – really bright pink/red. The nose shows rose water, strawberry lollies and red berries. All fine so far. Its the palate where things get muddled. An entry of red fruit and lollies stops early – leaving a very dry palate that feels hollow and empty, the acid backbone soft and undistinguished. Its like this is trying to hard to be savoury and trendy without remembering that it comes from Mclaren Vale – the mid palate of the nation. Where is the lovely ripe fruit? Simple and unsatisfying. 15

Delamotte Brut NV
I believe this is almost a Blanc De Blancs style, yet at the very approachable price of $65. It smells rich, creamy and generous with layers of yeasty autolysis that imbue this with an air of sophistication. Well handled dosage here too – not too sweet, but plenty generous. Great stuff. 17.4

Bollinger NV
It is a misnomer to call this dependable? Consistently good sparkling, with more obvious winemaking influence than most other houses – more yeast, a hint of oak and a predominance of Pinot make this a more robust and powerful style than many competitors, the acidity here is powerful and reminds that this standard Bollinger Special Cuvee will live for a while too. Class. 17.7

Louis Roederer Brut Vintage 2002
I am happy to call myself a Roederer fan – I’ve probably drunk more Brut Premier than any other Champagne thanks to a dodgy barman friend who used to serve this to us when no one was looking. Sadly however this vintage incarnation was a dissapointment – skinny, lean and muddled, it may well just be too young, but on this tasting I would be sticking to the much more complete Brut Premier NV. 16.8+

Billecart Salmon Blanc De Blancs
The word is that some more recent Billecart’s have been rather disappointing, but this seemed quite smart. It’s a lean, drawn out style that seemed more like Sparkling Chablis than Champagne, with a slightly flinty metallic edge to the reasonably lean palate. Good, but expensive @ $120. 17.6+

Duval Leroy Paris Brut NV
This premium Cuvee comes in one very sexy, printed black bottle. If I was out to impress i would be flashing this around for sure. Whats more, it tastes more like a vintage wine than your typical NV with toasty richness, obvious reserve wine age and convincing complexity to the palate. Really good. 18