Top shelf Australian Pinot playoff

As the title suggests, the notes below are all on Pinot (with one sparkling interloper).
These were tasted at the ‘Pinot Noir Australia’ Event at Sydney’s Woollahra Hotel. A well run exercise with an outstanding focus, it was an excellent opportunity to benchmark Australian Pinots with their peers (though if there had of been some wines from across the Tasman I fear they would have fairly gazumped many wines here).

As usual, these notes where taken at absolute speed, in a noisy, distraction filled environment so many are very brief indeed (you should see my notebook – it looks like it was written by a very tired 5 year old).

Kurabana Blanc De Noir 2005
I know nothing about this winery or this wine except that it is from Geelong & its listed at $27ea. It is, regardless, an excellent & rather sophisticated bubbly from this fast emerging cool climate region. Stemmy nose with strawberry Pinot notes, the palate is dry & mixes green apple crunch with some Blackberry varietal characters. I really liked the structure & drive here. Must find out more. 17.8

Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir 2007
Straight into the big guns! A distinctive lick of Macedon mint on the nose with really dominant aniseed. Nice definition and regionality. The palate lives up to expectations – its long, with a chewy midsection and tangy, quite high acidity. Real deep ethereal extras here. X Factor. Still tight & young, but still brilliant. 18.5+

Coldstream Hills Amphitheatre Pinot Noir 2006
Last time I went to Coldstream I walked away feeling a little robbed. They should have served me this. Ripe, dense, cherry red Yarra fruit – its a character that reminds me a little of Marlborough in its velvety brightness & roundness. Suffice to say, I find it a very attractive style indeed. Rich, polished & quite classic palate. Its perhaps a little smoky & almost too rich & alcoholic, but there is no doubting the quality of the fruit. Very good indeed. Crazy price though. 18

Penfolds Cellar Reserve Pinot Noir 2007
One of Gago’s pet projects and an unquestionably authentic ‘are you sure its a Penfolds’ style ala the Cellar Reserve Sangiovese. Old oak. Meat. A very tight nose. Quite a restrained, powerful palate lurking in their, but cloaked in some serious tannins, if just a little hard & jarring. Needs time, but interesting regardless. 17.3+

Giaconda Beechworth Pinot Noir 2005
A wine in need of cellaring time. Ripe, sappy red fruit & plum nose. I have written here ‘like Otago meets Mornington – fragrance meets ripeness’. The palate though is deeply structured, stalky and animale edged with much in reserve. If you have some, leave it alone. 17.4++

Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir 2005
Unequivocal. Real typical BP and actually genuine hard work, though you just know there is glory in there somewhere, hopefully, definitely… Hardy & quite smoky on the nose with some real whole bunch stalks & pips on the nose. It reeks of structure first, fruit second. The palate surprises in its balance, retaining generosity, though only a smidgen. Challenging drink now. 16.6++

Curly Flat Pinot Noir 2006
Lovely. Quite famine. Bright, lifted cherry fruit nose, with some eucalypt, cloves and stalks. the palate is deliciously soft & quite fruit driven, but without feeling sweet. Sexy stuff. 18.4

Bress Pinot Noir 2008
Very youthful in this lineup. Another quite licoricey nose, the palate shows soft fruit but with a minty, slightly unripe edge. Could just be a bit young and awkward however. Interesting wine that should build with time. 17.1++

Scorpo Noirien Pinot Noir 2008
A bright entry level wine of some spicy appeal. White pepper, approachable red fruit. A shade simple int this lineup, yet still good. 16.8

Scorpo Pinot Noir 2006
A very big wine indeed. Feels very dense & heavy with structure after the Noirien, almost too big. Really needs time. 17++

Scorpo Pinot Noir 2001
Just starting to dry out. Nose of bacon bits & chocolate. Its very youthful on the nose for an 8 yr old. Quite an extractive palate that feels like it is all structure, no fruit intensity. Still good. 16.8

Stoney Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004
The nose has spearmint, roast lamb & menthol. The palate is just ripe, acidic and quite firmly structured. Ultimately, to enjoy this wine, you have to be quite tolerant of a bit of spearmint – which is, ultimately, a barely ripe fruit character. In this instance I really quite enjoyed it, however if repeated I’m not so sure. Still, knowing what these wines are like, it will quite possible be a stunner in 10 years. Borderline, try before you buy stuff. 17.0

Domaine A Pinot Noir 2005
The goods. Spearmint, riper fruit & roast beef on the distinctively Domaine A nose. A very clear line with the above wine, with just a better, riper year to bring this to the fore. It’s still undeniably straddles the just ripe edge, but it will also mature particularly successfully. I like it very much, but its not for everybody. 18+++

Kooyong Estate Pinot Noir 2007
A lesser wine for this very successful maker. Quite stewed & dry with a palate that feels stretched. Its still a Kooyong, no denying the style, but this was average. May well improve with time. 16.5+

‘Farrside’ By Farr Pinot Noir 2007
This is the new name for the By Farr Pinot and, as is often the case with Gary Farr’s wines, its brilliant – one of those wines that sticks out as (the elusive) ‘something special’.
Bright, red fruit Pinot nose. A very bright, opulent and open style with a quite big, dense palate of slightly herbal, pure red fruit. Impressive layers of flavour to the palate & still more in store. Great. 18.3++

Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2006
Clear similarities with the By Farr, with the same slightly mulchy, just meaty, dense palate. Again, real length & sophistication. Real Pinot, if not quite as opulent as the By Farr. 18+

Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2007
Well on its way to cult status but in my books its quite a simple, young vine wine. Could change with time. Chocolatey, redcurrant & sausage nose, the palate is a little simple & sweet, but its also dry & quite tannic & reserved. Quality, but compared to the two wines above, this was, well, ordinary. 16.9

Frogmore Creek Pinot Noir 2006
Only caught a passing glance at this one. Seemed very bright & pure with nice fragrance. Might be well worth a try. NR

Scotchmans Hill Norfolk Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004
A super premium Scotchmans Pinot, this seemed overly advanced. Meaty & developing with a palate that fell away through the back end. 15.8

Curlewis Bellarine Selection Pinot Noir 2007
Good value stuff. Its a quite simple, rather ripe & chocolate oak edged style that firms up towards the back end. Light & immature, but obviously well made. Very good for the ($25) dollars. 17+

Curlewis Reserve Pinot Noir 2007
Big, red fruit nose in a luscious and pure nose. Very ripe. Delicious, sweet & decadent style that is pure & immediately pleasurable. Lovely & winning. 17.9

Springvale Pinot Noir 2006
Confected nose, slightly hard palate. Simple + short. 15.9

Port Phillip Estate Morillon Pinot Noir 2006
A quite light, feminine style that I think suffered in this lineup. A wine that really needs to be drunk at the dinner table. Pure fruit, sticky tannins, but felt just slightly weak. Drinkable, but not quite convincing in this lineup. 17.1

Lethbridge Mietta Pinot Noir 2006
Meaty, sweaty nose & a surprisingly simple palate. This taste was quite rushed, but it just felt a little slimy & hammy. Retaste required. 16