Mantra [Abundance] Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (Margaret River, WA)
$20, Screwcap, 13.5%
I’ve never actually met Brad Wehr, producer of both this Mantra and the cannily labelled Wine By Brad range, yet I can imagine him as one of only a select group of people who can pull off a Hawaiian shirt without looking like an American tourist. (though I could be wrong)
After sitting with a glass or so of this, one of Brad’s newest babies, for about an hour, I think I finally have this wines measure. Took me a while though, as it’s quite an oaky and ripe beast, that initially pours very sweetly. Give it a good decant then if you don’t like chocolate milkshakes.
Eventually I decided, and some might scoff, that this has more than a little baby Moss Wood about it. It’s certainly a lighter wine than your typical Moss Wood, and the fruit struggles to keep up with the oak, but its the texture that had me thinking of Keith Mugford’s Wilyabrup baby.
Flavour wise its all dark chocolate, black pastille lollies and medium toast oak, sitting in a very plump, yet still dry and unequivocally Margaret River warm vintage style. It’s upfront and voluptuous then, but with enough grunt to keep things interesting.
Personally I’d like to see a less toasty oak, as its just a little too dominant for me, but that’s more an indication of personal preference. In truth, it’s hard to disagree with how personable this is. Very few people are going to dislike it, and especially not at the price. 17/90
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8 Comments
Interesting thoghts. I was thinking of trying this, but you've sort of damned it with faint praise, to sound a bit Sir Humphrey-esque. It doesn't really sound like my style – I'm not over-keeen on the chocolate toasty oak effect either. Will it recede? Sounds pretty reasonable value though. Any thoughts on the lifespan of this sort of wine?
Also sounds like a couple of other '07 MR Cabernets that I've sampled. I'm finding the vintage a bit tricky with regard to cellar choices around the $25-$60 mark; lots of very good, immediately accessible wines – but not many massive standouts. In that price bracket, I'm probably still with the Woodlands Margaret – obviously a bit of a contrast to this in style with its picked-earlier profile.
Cheers,
MichaelC
Firstly, this wine:
A very tricky one to rate. The Marketer in me got excited about the ripeness and immediacy, but the objective taster couldn't get past the dominant oak. That oak though will definitely integrate, but I'll never love the wine.
The challenge with the style, however, is that every single person who I showed the bottle too loved the stuff, and I can see why: It's a beautifully ripe, clearly varietal wine that tastes like Margaret River Cabernet, has a smooth and inviting texture and proper tannins. I mean, what more is there to want in a $20 bottle of wine?
As for cellar choices from 07 MR, its probably driven more by personal preference than anything else, although many 07's are only just being released. I've bought some of the Margaret, but I love the restraint and latent power of the Woodlands wines. The rest of my recent dollars are going towards the 07 Cullens (at this stage), particularly the 07 DM for the very long haul.
Thanks Andrew. I suspect I have similar taste to you in these matters. I'll try the '07 Fraser Gallop Cabernet tomorrow night. That'll be also on the chocolatey side. Just bought some of the '07 Blue Poles Allouran (4). I've not tried it but sounds like good stuff for the price. I also oddly preferred the '06 to the '05 when I bought a 'Right Bank' pack. A good spot there.
I think I'll just buy a couple of the Cullen. No point killing one while young – I'll let you wine tasting folks do that for me!
As for $20 and Cabernet. The Wynns Black Label '07 would have my money at the moment – when at that price. It might be commercial, but it's bloody good. I think we agree on Winefront though.
MichaelC
That's far too much agreeing with me!
Report back on your thoughts re the Fraser Gallop.
Hmmm, I sell this wine in NSW so I guess I am biased. But I am also a Burgundy fiend and prefer elegant wines. I don't find this oaky at all. Sure it has a little chocolate, but less than a Central Otago pinot. I find it quite elegant, think it has great acid and is very moreish. The first time I tried it I didn't stop till the bottle was empty! 🙂
Hello Andrew.
Tried the '07 Fraser Gallop Cabernet Sauvignon on Friday night. Nice wine, but tending towards the slightly over-ripe territory in my rather staid and conservative view! It's also a bit volatile on the nose, almost distractingly so. Tannins a bit loose for top-draw MR Cabernet. Very plush middle palate though, which sort of makes up for the more questionable aspects of the wine. Not sure if I'll buy any more until I've tried the rest of the usual suspects from '07. 91 points for me.
MichaelC
I dont find this wine oaky at all… i think its a very balanced classic MR Cabernet from a great vintage. Way too easy to drink
It's probably very nicely integrated now too (just to show me up)…