Climbing Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Orange, NSW)
13.5%, Screwcap, $22
Source: Sample
 www.cumuluswines.com.au

From a packaging perspective these Climbing wines are pretty clever, with the Where’s Wally-esque wrap around graphic labels a real highlight (for me at least). I even found myself looking closer at the label to see if a yellow Wally carrying a briefcase might be in the background.The juice in the bottle, however, has never been as fun as the labels lead you to believe. This 09 Cabernet though looks to be the best one yet.

What makes this so attractive is it’s careful ripeness – it’s a full, plus-size wine for Orange, yet still retains a whiff of cool climate cedar and mintiness, with genuine structure. On the palate it’s rather firm, the oak a fraction creamy dominant and the acid ever so slightly intrusive, but viewed as a whole this is a wine of length and cool climate stylin’ at a very reasonable price. I’ve got no doubt it will be looking even better in 3 years time to boot. Good form. 17.6/91+