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Tapanappa Chardonnay Glorious stuff. Love the screwcaps too… |
Tapanappa new releases
I always look forward to the latest Tapanappa releases, purely as they’re yet to disappoint. Ever. Even the lesser wines are detailed, structured and thoughtfully made, automatically making them worth highlighting.
These four new 2010 vintage releases however see the label hit new heights, with the Adelaide Hills Chardonnay pair in particular serving to show that modern Australian Chardonnays need not be strictly ‘lean’ to impress. Kudos Mr Croser…
Before launching into the wines proper, you can find a little context about the Tapanappa project here or here to to work out where I’m coming from.
Actually, giving the concept of fanboy biases some thought, I do wonder sometimes how much my respect for a label – and the people behind it – may well cloud the objectivity. Should I be quelling my enthusiasm in the name of pure objectivity I wonder? Or would that rob wine notes of a little enjoyment?
Tapanappa Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2010
I first reviewed this Chardonnay in August last year. Since then the oak has integrated and the fruit has stepped up… For the $39 RRP this is outstanding Chardonnay. 12.8% alc. pH 3.04. TA 6.8g/l. Sugar 05.g/l. VA 0.38g/l. 500 cases produced.
Exceptional oak handling here. Full malo and it shows with a toasty, full richness, yet not a trace of sweetness. Slightly extrovert, almost powdered oak is very attractive. Top shelf oak. Dry, fine, acid driven palate has not a filip of excess. Long! There is just a hint of nougat ripeness and weight through the middle, but finishes cleanly. The very model of modern Chardonnay. Excellent wine.
Drink: 2012-2016+
Score: 18.5/94
Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay 2010
The older plantings on the Tiers vineyard are – in contrast to the newer plantings – Gin Gin clones, the vines now over 30 years of age. Interestingly, the handling of this wine is largely identical to the Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay. 13.2% alc. pH 3.15. TA 7g/l. VA 0.39g/l. RRP $80. 400 cases produced.
A much more reticent and compact nose than the Piccadilly Chardonnay with a slight whiff of volatiles. Brooding and dense and Puligny-esque. The palate too is a tight wine, toying with you in its flavour profile, both creamy and sweetly oaked whilst dry and chalky through the finish. X factor Chardonnay indeed. Loved it. Loved it so much that I couldn’t stop drinking it..
Drink: 2012-2018+
Score: 18.8/95
Tapanappa Fleurieu Peninsula Pinot Noir 2010
Sourced from Block 2, which comprises of 2 hectares of younger plantings on the Foggy Hill vineyard planted to Bernard (Dijon) clones 115 and 777. 12.9% alc. pH 3.65. TA 5.8g/l. VA 0.58g/l. 500 cases produced.
A rather bright and pretty wine this one, with a lifted strawberry and redcurrant perfume making it a model of bright fruit, if just a fraction caramelised around the edges. The palate too is full and polished with more red fruit sweetness, lowish acid and light tannins. A slightly simple sort of Pinot, albeit savoury and genuinely varietal, this is affable and pure.
Drink: 2012-2016
Score: 17.5/91
Tapanappa Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010
Sourced from the older plantings (7 years old) on the Foggy Hill vineyard, the fruit again treated similarly to the second label, though with 10% whole bunches. 13.2% alc. pH 3.68. TA 5.7g/l. VA 078g/l. 900 cases produced.
A deeper and more complex wine this one, still carrying that redcurrant fruit but with more florals and red cherry. Would be interesting to see more stems in here, though Brian thinks this level is about right. The palate is just medium bodied, polished and rounded with a glacé plum and black cherry fruit profile that is a step up the concentration scale from the cheaper wine. It’s again a lovely fleshy wine – sans sweetness – if just wanting a little more structure to tie it all together.
Drink: 2012 – 2017+
Score: 17.8/92
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