Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir (Adelaide Hills, SA)
14.5%, Screwcap, $65CD
Source: Cellar door
It’s about time that we acknowledge that this is amongst Australia’s finest Pinot Noirs. Domestically we tend to believe that good Pinot Noir is almost exclusively Victorian (or Tasmanian) leaving the best examples from NSW, SA and WA as afterthoughts. That attitude, however, is ignoring just how good those afterthoughts can be…
Stylistically this reminded me of a warm year Pommard if anything, though that is a slight to good Australian Pinot Noir, as this comfortably speaks with a eucalypt edged Australian accent.
It’s very dark for an Ashton Pinot Noir actually, a dark ruby colour that is hardly beastly, but suggests ripeness. The nose too is serious and dense, sappy, cherry, ham hock Pinot fruit. A ripe nose, given away by the hint of brandied volatiles. An unequivocally Pinoty one too, full and smoky and secondary with no oak to be found and the most purest, evolved expression of the grape. That is mirrored on the palate too which is firm, grandiose and luscious, a big Ashton Hills (too big?) Pinot and resoundingly convincing in its length and tannins, finishing quite warm.
A bold statement of a wine that is on a whole other level compared to any other South Australian Pinot I can think. A wonderful, slightly warm, drink too. Yes. Drink earlier perhaps but revel in that bombastic Pinosity. I did.
Drink: 2013- 2020
Score: 18.7/20 95/100
Would I buy it? Yes. More for drinking now though.
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