Pinot-esque Grenache: Head Old Vine Grenache 2012

May 29, 2013

Head Old Vine Grenache 2012 (Barossa Valley, SA)
14.5%, Screwcap, $40
Source: Sample
www.headwines.com.au

The notion that Grenache is the Pinot Noir of the Barossa continues to (re)gain steam.

I was chatting only yesterday with Marco Cirillo (of Cirillo Estate, who helped Alex Head make the earlier vintages of this very wine) about the idea that Barossa Grenache is often best expressed as a silky, mid-weight wine. Marco’s old-oak matured, old-vine sourced ‘Vincent’ Grenache is a very apt example of the style, his 1850 Grenache in a similar vein just with more intensity.

This 2012 Head Grenache is probably the lightest, most delicate – and perhaps the most easily drinkable – Grenache to come from Alex Head yet the style (to paraphrase Alex himself) something of a tribute to the wonderfully fruit-driven, gentle Barossan Grenache of yore.

Sourced from a single vineyard in Krondorf, this was fermented with partial whole bunches (which is going to promote some carbonic maceration and give juiciness) in old oak before bottling with minimal sulphur and no fining or filtration.

It looks pure and unadulterated too, with open, mulberry fruit juiciness on nose and palate that stops before tipping into obvious sweetness. There is a sandy, candied openness to that nose which can be nothing but Grenache (in the best possible way), with the palate driven by an initial front palate hit of polished fruit, the middle silky, the finish light but fine.

Very fine actually, the palate long, effortlessly grapey and only slightly warm. It’s perhaps a bit tightly wound to really show it’s best, but certainly a palate of energy and drive already.

Delicate, unforced and pure – this ticks every box for good, Pinot-esque Grenache. I think I’d like just a little more weight, but the prettiness and liveliness makes this quite wonderful.

Drink: 2013-2020
Score: 18/20 93/100
Would I buy it? Yes.

2012, Barossa, Grenache, Wine

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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