Even Keel Pinot Noir 2011 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)
Screwcap, $29
Source: Tasting
www.evenkeel.com.au
Sam Coverdale dropped around today, bringing with him a burgeoning bag of Mornington Peninsula goodies under his Even Keel and Polperro labels.
Despite the array of more premium new release wines in Sam’s bag, it was this wine that most caught my eye (the superb 2010 Polperro Mill Hill Chardonnay was also in tow, but I’ve seen it before so it doesn’t count). It caught my eye because, in lieu of it’s more expensive, single-vineyard sourced brothers, this was ready to drink immediately – no need to wait. Better still, it carries that sprightly, tangy acidity that many 2011 southern Victorian wines show, without the acid derailing the palate (unlike many ’11s).
Sam believes this careful balance is simply because he just left the grapes out there hanging (at the Mill Hill vineyard at least) for as long as possible, leaving the nets off and nervously fretting/spraying regularly until the acidity dropped enough to pick.
Ultimately I rather like the cut of this wines jib. It’s a cool year wine but not an unripe one – an important distinction – that will never woo with its fruit richness, but has real savoury interest. It’s older brother (the 2011 Polperro Mill Hill Pinot Noir) is arguably a better wine, yet this is better drinking now. Both are worthy of attention.
Drink: 2013-2018
Score: 17.7/20, 92/100
Would I buy it? A two glass wine. With duck.
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