Voyager Estate Project North Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Margaret River, WA)
$90, Screwcap
Source: Tasting
www.voyagerestate.com.au
A new wine in the Voyager lineup, this was served at the end of what was a typically fantastic Voyager Estate masterclass held today (notes on that to follow).
Following in the footsteps of the last project wine (the Project 95 Chardonnay), this is sourced from a single vineyard planted to the ‘Houghton’ clone in 1995, the vines in which are deliberately worked hard to lower yields and ensure consistent fruit – think leaf plucking, shoot thinning, green harvesting, fruit sorting and the like, with such techniques deliberately employed to produce quality with less regard to cost.
You can see the commitment in the wine too, as it tastes like the absolute distillation of Voyager Cabernet – the beating heart of the standard Cabernet Merlot, laid bare.
What I like most about this wine is the definition. It screams Voyager Cabernet, with a pencilly, sharply detailed nose of cedar and briar and savoury black Cabernet fruit. There is an almost regal Cabernet-ness here that is translated on the powerful, ripe, fully filled tannic palate, the style obviously quite big, yet stiil lso varietal and plenty crisp to finish.
Actually the sense of rawness here is perhaps the only downer, a suggestion that, whilst all is in place, the lines are just a little jagged and warmish. Still, this is special Cabernet that couldn’t be anymore Margaret River-ish if it tried, a wine built precisely and perfectly in nearly every way. Plus it tastes pretty good too.
Drink: 2014-2029
Score: 18.7/20, 95/100
Would I buy it? Yes. Cheaper than Moss Wood and twice the detail.
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