Step up Australia’s top Gruner Veltliner.

This vintage sees Lark Hill’s Gruner cast in a much fuller mode, moving from the Riesling-esque, leaner Federspiel style into something approaching Smaragd ripeness (for anyone looking for Austrian benchmarks).

It works better too, turning all of the grapes natural characteristics up a notch. Riper, spicier, more fragrant and definitely more viscous, complete the Gruner white pepper and capsaicin-like burn. It really is akin to rolling in a spice cabinet, and finished off with firmish acidity to match.

Perhaps the only thing missing is a little more detail to match the new found aromatic power and fruit weight, a character which I can only imagine will come with more vine age.

An absolute success regardless.

Drink: 2013-2015
Score: 18.3/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? Absolutely.