There is simply no questioning that this Chardonnay has become more vital wine since the vineyard switch to biodynamics. Of course the quality upswing could also be attributable to the influence of second generation Lark Hill winemaker Chris Carpenter in the family business, as it could be a matter of increasing vine age. Likely all three.

What’s not in doubt is just how well-built this Chardonnay is – wild fermented in 20% new oak, it spends just nine months on lees in barrel and has clearly coming out looking very fresh indeed. There’s a hint of nouguat on the nose, but otherwise barrel influence is limited and the style is all about intense, citrus and stonefruit flavours. 

Actually, the key to the appeal here is that acidity – it is very firm and natural, making for an impression of intensity of fruit and intensity of acidity. Net result is a fine, mid-weight, stonefruit and citrus driven Chardonnay of clarity and freshness, needing a little more time to gain weight but otherwise as fresh as can be.

A Riesling lovers Chardonnay.

Drink: 2013-2016+
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? A half bottle prospect.