Quartz Hill Roussanne 2011 (Pyrenees, Vic)

A new producer and a very small operation, this is made by Darrin Gaffy using fruit sourced from the Glenlofty vineyard in the Pyrenees. As a fan of Rhone Roussanne I’m always excited to see someone working with this cheeky little variety, even if it often just produces something flabby. Like this.

Wild fermented and barrel matured for 18 months, it’s texturally rather clever and phenolic, the oak filling out the middle and alcohol warming the finish. The issue is simply that the fruit is already tiring, looking broader and thicker by the minute. Still, for winemaking complexity and intent alone this probably deserves some encouragement.

Drink: 2014
Score: 16.5/20, 88/100
Would I buy it? Not quite. Keen to see more of the wines though.
www.quartzhillwines.com.au

13.5%, Screwcap, $32. Source: Sample. Tasted: January 2014