Bobar Syrah 2012 (Yarra Valley, Vic)
12.5%, Screwcap, $27

Apologies Tom Belford, but when I see Bobar I think Babar.

Anyway, there is nothing elephantine about this Syrah. Rather, it is a fine-boned Yarra red that is made with low sulphur and an appreciation for delicacy and refreshment. I’ve been meaning to write it up for ages but a chance second taste this week really forced the pen.

Produced largely in tank with plenty of whole bunches, this is full of black pepper spice with an overlay of biltong. Super super spicy with a real black pepper wildness and a surreal, almost Sangiovese-esque black olive tapenade palate.

It’s medium bodied with high acid and a hint of spritz, but never feels awkward – just intriguing in a Beaujolais-esque way.

Fun, slightly polarising wine.

Source: Sample/Tasting
Tasted: May 2014
Drink: 2014-2017 (not a keeper).
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle