More imported goodies from the Negociants portfolio
Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 2011 (Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy, France)
I’m a card-carrying member of the Bonneau fan club, yet still I thought this looked a little lumpy. An opulent, creamy and quite forward release it is immediately open and toast and quite new world-esque for Bonneau complete with tinned pineapple in cream fatness. What saves it is the persistence which ensures this goes on and on (and on). Top flight length, but that fullness and almost added, lumpy acid doesn’t quite resolve. An early maturer that is good now but probably won’t get much better. Still a giant amongst Chardonnay (which is reflected in the score). 18.1/20, 93/100
Marc Bredif Chinon 2012 (Loire, France)
Another lovely 12 Loire rouge! Crunchy acidity, drying tannins but with a red fruit flourish. Real energy and acidity! Simple wine but lovely too, complete with some Francy bitterness, fennel to complement that red fruit vivaciousness. I loved this, despite it being a quite simple wine. 17.5/20, 91/100
Greywacke Pinot Gris 2012 (Marlborough, NZ)
This is the best Marlborough Pinot Gris I’ve had in ages. Reasonably ripe, yet still gravelly, the nose wildly yeasty yet backed by a palate with lots of acidity and some phenolic grip but also a resounding clear mealy fruit. Quite a complex and satisfying Pinot Gris – dancing between ripe fruit and firm acidity. Good! 17.8/20, 92/100
Greywacke Chardonnay 2011 (Marlborough, NZ)
Such razor sharp clarity! Impressively defined. Has a leesy, doughy palate with an almost Sausagey yeast funk and snappy acid to finish. I put it up against the Bonneau and it certainly had the Bonneau’s measure for complexity and interest though a smidgen behind on length. Smoky, smouldering and really quite brilliant modern Marlborough Chard. 18/20, 93/100
Pintia Toro 2006 (Toro, Spain)
I’ve never loved this Vega Sicilia outpost, but then again I’ve never had an older one (as it was first made in ’01). Huge, old fashioned wall of oak here – that flashy, 100% new French oak that reminds me of Torbreck. Expensive barrels. Big licoricey fruit too – a boozy, slightly overwrought and overripe powerhouse of a black Tempranillo. Still, there is an agelessness here too – it’s big and black and will stay that way. Might be a great wine in a decade if the booze holds, but there is no detail to be found. Score reflects the power and the length. 17.5/20, 91/100+
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