Curiously, of all the Tahbilk wines this one seems the most wobbly – it just can’t nail the balance between savoury rusticity and modern polish.

The vintage is the real issue here, the style showing baked forward, baked earth warmth and cooked plum fruit. Fruit sweet and concentrated, which will help this in the very long term, the tannins carrying the curranty, dried fruit air seen in warm years (which again can help in the long term).

Some will love the concentration of this, and no doubt it will last, but undoubtedly this looks much more secondary and cooked than you’d really like. Score gets a bump purely do the power.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink: 2014-2028+
Score: 16.5/20, 88/100
Would I buy it? No. However this would probably look alright as a twenty year old…
Buy online: Tahbilk website