December Tasting Notes Roundup
A few hits and misses from the tasting bench this month. A special mention to the Streiker (hit) and the Bleasdale (miss).
La Linea TRKN Riesling 2013 (Adelaide Hills, SA) 12%, $26
Bright, extremely sprightly and ultra pure this is painfully dry, the grapefruit juice acidity almost harsh in its intensity. Superb, ice-pure acid driven intensity but I found this just a little brutal. Like drinking grapefruit/lemon juice. Sublime intensity, but I prefer the off dry version. 17/20, 90/100
Seppeltsfield Eden Valley Riesling 2014 (Eden Valley, SA) 12%, $22
Sherbet and lime. Quite a light palate all things considered, the acid initially soft before a late hit of citrus acid sharpness. Gentle style, if not quite brilliant concentration. Drinkable though. 17/20, 90/100
Soumah Savarro 2014 (Yarra Valley, Vic) 12.5%, $26
Savagnin. There’s such a Riesling vibe here. Difficult to shake the Riesling-ness, all chalky phenolics and pear juice direct fruit. Produced clean, all in tank, it’s a fruity number with brisk but not harsh acidity. Simple fruits, clean, dry and long. Valid dry white, but as a Savagnin mascot? 17/20, 90/100
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Margaret River, WA) 13%
Intensely juicy, passionfruit and passiona nose. Really intense citrus. Slightly sharp citrus acid palate but clean lines and great intensity. Solid Sauv, but definitely for lovers of the real grassy, thiol heavy style. 17.5/20, 91/100
Belford Block 8 Semillon 2014 (Hunter Valley, NSW) 11%
Lemongrass, bracing acidity, delicate flavours. Driven by sour acidity, the palate a touch light-on flavour wise but classical structure. Ticks the boxes quite nicely without rising above. 16.5/20, 88/100
Tulloch Hunter River White 2013 (Hunter Valley, NSW) 11%, $25
Semillon. Quite ripe but also buzzy acidity, this is just the perfect $25 Sem. There’s a soapy pear character of slightly riper fruit than the Hunter norm, but balanced by quite firm lemon grapefruit acid. A perfect Sauv alternate and crisp and long, if a bit broadly focused and lemon/hay full to be glorious (so drink young). Still yes. 17.5/20, 91/100
Pepper Tree Polly Fumé 2014 (Hunter Valley & Orange, NSW) 12%, $28
Acid. Loads of it. Green papaya over melon. Did I mention the acidity? Apparently this blend of Hunter Sem and Orange Sauv was barrel fermented but gee it’s hard to see. Lean and linear palate is just a little too straight up to be enjoyable. 16/20, 87/100
Streiker Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 (Margaret River, WA) 12.5%, $35
I love the back label irreverence on this. Barrel fermented and matured in French oak, ‘Yet done dry, yada yada yada’. It’s a herbal, grassy and slightly sour wine initially, but the palate is so very carefully delineated and long with just enough texture that you can’t help but admire it. It needs another year or so at least but structurally its supreme stylish. Maybe too much sour herbs but very long which really bumps the score up. 18/20, 92/100
Bleasdale Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2013 (Adelaide Hills, SA) 12.5%, $21
There’s some nice solidsy funk going on in this Chardonnay, showing the intent and winemaking craft are pretty spot on. If only the lumpy acidity was less twangy and this would be a star. As it stands a wine of two halves. 17/20, 90/100
Church Road Classic Chardonnay 2013 (Hawke’s Bay, NZ) 13.5%, $25.99
View Road Wines Amelie 2012 (Adelaide Hills, SA) 12.6%, $37
I think this is Chardonnay, though it doesn’t say so on the label. 2.5 weeks on skins and just 24 dozen produced. Josh’s ‘orange’ (woops, I mean orange hued or something. Boo) is indeed orange in hue but quite bright. There’s butterscotch, lemon, marzipan and the straw/hay of Chardonnay skin, those skin phenols transferring a grippy tannic impression to the palate, which is actual quite lean and mealy. A fraction sweet and sour, yet really quite long, it’s a divisive wine thanks to the grip, yet also reasonably fresh too. Not without charisma, if a tricky wine to really ‘love’. 17.5/20, 91/100
Pizzini Rosetta 2014 (King Valley, Vic) 12%, $19
Ultra dry. Too dry even. There’s some wild berry Sangiovese varietal fruit but the acid is too brutal for me to love. Lovely purity though. 16.8/20, 89/100
Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Rose 2014 (Marlborough, NZ) 13.5%, $19.99
Pinot rose. Salmon orange pink. Light strawberries, a little musk. Very serious! Bone dry palate is a fraction too dry for this price point though mighty crisp, the acid balancing out slightly underpowered strawberry fruit. Admirable style for $20 Rose. Value pick. 17/20, 90/100
Handpicked Capella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic) 13.9%, $70
Full, purple colour – like many ripe ’13 Mornington Pinots. There’s ripeness all through this, from the plum and kirsch on the nose right through to the big, black cherry palate. Huge, saturated purple fruits, hot finish and no shortage of flavour. It’s a giant wine, but I find it alcoholic. and lacking delicacy. No doubting the intensity though – it’s like a Shiraz in its plumminess. Fully priced. 17.7/20, 92/100
Montalto Pennon Hill Pinot Noir 2013 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic) 13.7%, $30
La Linea Tempranillo 2014 (Adelaide Hills, SA) 13.5%, $27
Currants and berries. Lovely colour. It’s very primary this year, blood red and a little bitter. Pulpy fresh and a fraction warm, there’s a furriness to the tannins and warm finish. Still one of our best Temps if not as complex this vintage – a little warm and diffuse. 17.5/20, 91/100
Moppity Lock & Key Reserve Shiraz 2013 (Hilltops, NSW) 14%, $26
A medal list as long as my arm. Bright purple colour, bright purple squished berry flavours with a very sweet finish. Very sweet, generous and easy going, it’s a fraction too confected and sweet for me to like but I can understand how it wins awards – it’s a huge mouthful of blueberry fruit, highish acid and some of the dark black tilled earth Hilltops character. Has its charms, though I couldn’t drink any – just too sweet. 17/20, 90/100
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