Like old school rich Barossan Shiraz? Then this St Hugo is a no-brainer

December 9, 2014

Like old school rich Barossan Shiraz? Then this St Hugo is a no-brainer

St Hugo Barossa Shiraz 2012 (Barossa Valley, SA)

I’m not sure if the new St Hugo winery is opened for business yet (it was still being built early last year) but gee whiz they could do worse than making wines like this 2012 Shiraz.

What’s great here is that it instantly takes you to the Barossa Valley floor. It smells, tastes, feels like Barossa Shiraz, oozing chocolates, plums and filled with the limitless richness of Shiraz from a good Barossa vintage, the tannins dry but soft, the oak filling some extra crannies, the sweet berry fruit irrepressible.

In every way this is what people want out of classic ‘big company’ Barossa Shiraz. Drinkers want that silky beautifully rich ripe fruit. They want that power and generosity. They expect flavours that linger. And you know what? I do too. There’s a very important place for wines like this.

What’s more interesting is just how much better this is than some other Barossan reds twice the price. Sure its oaky, and old school and the acid is a bit lemony, but for power and persistence and silkiness this really works – it’s just classic Barossa Shiraz, cool or not.

If names like Blackwell, Stonewell, Filsell or Command pop up regularly in your cellar, then this wine is a no brainer.

Details: 14.5%, Screwcap, $52
Source: Sample
Tasted: Dec 14
Drink: 2014-2024
Score: 18.5/20, 94/100
Would I buy it? Yes, though I wouldn’t drink it for 8-10 years yet.
Buy online: Dan Murphys, St Hugo website

2012, Barossa, Shiraz, Top Wine

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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6 responses to “Like old school rich Barossan Shiraz? Then this St Hugo is a no-brainer”

Anonymous

December 10, 2014 at 9:50 pm

Andrew,
For such a wine as this do you feel it was cellared for 8-10 years there would be a price to pay, i.e. That rich ripe fruit would fade. Perhaps fade is not the correct word to use in this instance but from my limited experience and from the descriptors you have used i suspect this would be far more drinkable earlier than later.
Your thoughts?

Colin r

Reply
1. ozwinereview
  
  December 10, 2014 at 9:58 pm
  
  Good question Colin. I've often felt that some Barossan reds just get softer rather than get better. This, I reckon, should get better over the next 6-8 and then just get softer after that. Peak drinking as an eight to ten year old for sure.
  
  Reply
Luke Johnston

December 11, 2014 at 6:21 am

Came into work today with my Dan Murphy's gift voucher (someone knows me very well…) ready to buy a few bottle of this after seeing it online for $30 yesterday.. only to see it had gone up $6 a bottle overnight. Bambow. And I think it has just changed price again by a few cents in the past few hours. These pricing games give me the shits at times.

Reply
1. ozwinereview
  
  December 11, 2014 at 6:29 am
  
  Ass. Still good at that price.
  
  Reply
Anonymous

December 14, 2014 at 6:28 am

Luke,
I feel your pain. I thought i was seeing things but you have confirmed my suspicions.
Andrew you may have to work on a code of some sort over the xmas/ new year break ?

Colin r

Reply
1. ozwinereview
  
  December 14, 2014 at 10:04 am
  
  Ok. Maybe a Burghound style 'sweet spot' for wines that are too good for the price?
  
  Reply