MC by Three Dark Horses Chardonnay 2014



MC by Three Dark Horses Chardonnay 2014 (Adelaide Hills, SA)

A new label to me and there’s some fun to be had with these ‘Sinners series’ wines.

The sinner, in this case, is Matt Broomhead, who is doing things that you’re not meant to do, particularly carbonic maceration for a white wine, which no one is ‘supposed’ to do.

This Chardonnay undergoes carbonic maceration for 7 days before being basket pressed to old oak for a full solids wild yeast ferment, then given some lees stirring and eventually bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Fun.

Intriguingly, it doesn’t taste all that wild. There’s a nutty, wheat beer edge to the nose from carbonic and full solids, but the white nectarine Chardonnay fruit is clean and quite pure. Indeed the palate is clean and razor sharp, if edged with the straw of skin contact, the acid/yeasty/solids contrast all quite appealing.

The only challenge is that its just too young. Stick this back in barrel for another 6 plus months and it would probably be even more complex, the slightly raw edges and overly linear lines softening to provide even more textural joy. It’s almost too clean now.

Regardless, this is pushing the boat out quite successfully.


Details: 12.5%, Screwcap, $25
Source: Sample
Tasted: Dec 14
Drink: 2016-2018
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? One glass would be enough. Promise is there though.
Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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