Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Red (July ’13 disgorgement)

In what has become a Graham household tradition, this sparkling red was front and centre for today’s Christmas lunch and in prime form – the 2013 disgorgement is possibly even better now than last year.

The key here, like all great sparkling wines, is the blend. The combined weight of old Australian wine, topped off with the impact of rich McLaren Vale Shiraz and dusty Cabernet gives this a complexity which is unmatched. You can smell the force of youthful McLaren Vale red wine, counter-punched with the earth and creaky delicacy of old wine. Old meets new, all in one glass.

Crucially, this is neither too tannic (the usual trap for ‘red wines with bubbles’), nor too heavy on the dosage (firm tannins need to be balanced somehow), instead flirting with both astringency and sweetness – and coming out a winner.

The greatest sparkling red in Australia (which means, by default, the world).

Details: 13.5%, Cork, $80
Source: Retail, tasted Dec 14
Score: 18.7/20, 95/100
Would I buy it? I did and I will again.
Buy online: Dan Murphys, Kemenys, Primo Estate website