Am I the only one who finds actually drinking most Australian botrytis styles hard work? 

All that sugar. So little refreshment. 

The better wines, however, at least counter the marmalade unctuousness with some complexity.

This Westend is normally one of those ‘better ones’. But this year, I’m not so sure. The issue is just how much botrytis the nose carries – it smells more like rot than wine, leaving a certain ugliness that the quite long palate can’t shake. 

It tastes better than it smells, and no questioning the power and weight – but I would struggle to empty a glass. The length bumps up the score.

Details: 11%, Screwcap, $25 (375ml)

Tasted: February ’15, Sample

Best drinking: 2015-2018

Score: 16/20, 87/100

Would I buy it? No.

Buy online: Wine People