This Shiraz isn’t going to keep you guessing.

From the outset, this is hearty, McLaren Vale red wine to the core, with deep purple colours, a thick, luscious choc berry palate with oak sweetness lifting things up, finishing with sweet mulberry fruit and warm alcohol.

Brash and bold, it’s oak rich and bursting with purple fruit which is going to win loads of fans, yet there is just a little too much alcohol and extract to seduce. All burliness, no tenderness – if you get what I mean.

Still, the concentration is immense, which suggests that in a year or two this will probably be looking great. Important plus sign.

Details: 14.5%, Screwcap, $30
Tasted: March 2015 (sample)
Best drinking: 2016-2025
Score: 17/20, 90/100+