d’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2012

There isn’t much (proportionally speaking) Grenache planted in the Vale, which makes it unusual that d’Arenberg have such a focus on it (they have control/access to 1/3rd of all of McLaren Vale’s Grenache). Vale Grenache deserves more love. This maroon red, utterly earthen style is probably not the pinnacle of modern sophistication, but the gritty tannins and flash of bitumen offer plenty of grunt. A little confected, but the impact here is admirable – it feels like real wine, if utterly unpolished. Drink: 2015-2025. 16.5/20, 88/100.Details: 14.6%, Screwcap, $18, Sample
Would I buy it? I’d drink a glass. That’s enough.
Buy online: Winebox Warehouse, d’Arenberg website