More 2014 Hunter Shiraz (and other goodies) from Gundog Estate

A great small cellar door (with decent beer), distinct branding and interesting wines – Gundog Estate are on a roll.Winemaker Matt Burton has a bit of a bi-regional focus with this label, the wines sourced from both the Hunter Valley and Canberra. Matt also has another brand called Burton McMahon from the Yarra (made with Dylan McMahon) that is pretty handy too (particularly the Chardonnay).The Gundog core though is Shiraz and Semillon, with the range of both varieites expanding quite a bit over the last few years to include more from both the Hunter and Canberra. Plenty of winemaking tinkering too, with more whole bunch inclusions for the reds and some clear tweaks with the Wild Semillon

Onwards and upwards.

I’ve reviewed several different wines in this post, some from a pre-release tasting in the Hunter several months ago and a few more from a tasting this week. The pre-release bottles were labelled and finished but I’ve got scant information on where they sit price-wise, just a very quick tasting impression.

Tasted Monday 20th October

Gundog Estate Rare Game Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014

Ruby red with a little purple, there’s a quite old school Hunter earth to this, but tempered with purple fruit. Old and new. It’s still a modern purple fruit wine, but with a savoury and quite grippy core and acidity that tastes, well, not like it has come from a bag. You could probably pass over this at first without realising its glory. But the closer you look, the more this looks like a real classic red for the long term. Drink 2016-2035. 18.5/20+, 94/100. 13.5%, $50. Would I buy it? Absolutely.

Gundog Estate Canberra Shiraz 2014

From the Dahlberg vineyard in Murrumbateman. 30% new French puncheons for 12 months. Deep red. Spicy but also very ripe, almost to the point where it’s too ripe, the dark red fruit quite dense and even a bit jammy and squat with a flick of pepper. Big and dark flavours, it’s perhaps a little warm but has flavour and flair, if a little warm to be great. Drink: 2016-2030. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5% $40. Would I buy it? I’d prefer the Hunter reds.
Gundog Estate Marksman’s Canberra Shiraz 2014
Also from the Dahlberg vineyard. Spends 15 months in oak. 2% Viognier and 20% whole bunches. Noticeably more oak touched than the standard Shiraz, but deeper and riper too. Black pepper, tobacco and red meets black berry. I like the extra concentration here, but the alcohol is again distracting. Quality, but going to need some space and time to come together. Drink: 2016-2030+. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $60. Would I buy it? A glass or two.

Tasted 29th May. I’ve got less info on these but woah such quality! Standout wines.

Gundog Estate Wild Semillon 2015

Admittedly I saw this when it was just bottled and it looked a bit weird – I’ll retaste in time. Full of tropicals. Passionfruit ahoy! Generous and full, yeasty and quite round/slightly sweaty. I can’t get past the passionfruit though! Ugh. Definitely a retaste required. Drink: 2016?. 16.5/20, 88/100. Would I buy it? Not yet.

Gundog Estate Old Road Shiraz 2014

I don’t know the story of this wine but gee I like. Purple fruit and earth. Loads of earth. Great tannins. Rhone meets the purple juice of Hunter – definitely some whole bunch spiciness here and it shows. Really meaty and even a little wild, this is excellent, earthy, exciting wine in very much an old school earthy style with a twist. 18.7/20, 95/100

Gundog Estate The ’48 Block Shiraz 2014

Again scant details, but this looked that little bit more classical after the raucous spice of the Old Road. Of all the wines this looked perhaps the most oak drawn for now, but gee there is presence underneath. Vibrant fruit a joy, if in very much an old school style. Length is superior though – it really sneaks up on you. High, high quality. Needs time though. 18.5/20, 94/100+

Gundog Estate Somerset Vineyard 2014

Just a little lesser than the other Gundog reds but only just. If anything, this looks a little plump but with a viscosity too. Still all arms and legs, if with potential to come. 18/20, 93/100+

Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

3 responses to “More 2014 Hunter Shiraz (and other goodies) from Gundog Estate”

  1. Hello Andrew,
    "I've get less info on these wines"
    Let me tell you Mr.Graham you have considerably more info on their wines than their own www. Many of the HV reds you reviewed aren't even on their www.
    "Holy Hunter Valley Batman"!

    Thanks Colin r

  2. Had an excelent tasting at the cellar door a few months ago … as you mention, great variety and diversity of semillon [mainly through winemaking choices] and reds very strong as they were mainly [all?] 2014s. The Indomitus white and red also worth checking out [i bought a twin pack with one of each].

    Seems like a very switched on winemaker, getting increasing access to good vineyards [I think one of the wines above might be from Tinkler's] and keeping the sites seperate. Good discounts if you become a member + Matt is a nice guy too.

  3. Thanks Andrew, enjoyed your review…Shared to my Facebook page and that of Matt's…..Great review on another of 'our' Hunter Valley Wines, KB

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