Jason Schwarz seems to be on quite a roll of late, with this Barossa grower-turned-winemaker producing very smart, modern Barossa wines in a style that I would want to be making (if I was a Barossa vigneron).

For this pair of red Jason is sourcing fruit from throughout the Barossa Valley, with ‘each individual parcel of fruit (adding) its own particular characters to the finished wine, where the result is larger than the sum of its parts’.

A particular nod here to the quality of the GSM, which again shows that the best reds in the Barossa are blends – and I’ll again say that Grenache pips Shiraz.

Buy both these wines direct from the winery here.

Schwarz Wine Co. Barossa Valley GSM 2014

Sourced from vineyards all over the Barossa, I’m not sure if this has some whole bunch (as some of the more recent Schwarz releases did), but it certainly carries the spice. Dark red with a flick of purple, this smells alive – of currants, bacon, raspberry jam and stems. Ripe, yet not sweet, the darkly tannic palate is deep, savoury and firm, giving just enough fruit away, to satisfy and finishing with handsome tannins. This is awfully serious, dark and brooding GSM, built masculine and meaty, with bone broth and Beetroot savouriness hiding the typical fruit sweetness, all without dipping over into hardness. Strong, lively and hearty (without being heavy), this is  high quality and deeply attractive, if not quite seductive (yet. But delicious). Best drinking: 2018-2026+. 18/20, 93/100+. 14.1%, $30. Would I buy it? Yes. Price is very fair too.

Schwarz Wine Co. Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014

As with the GSM, a multi-vineyard blend. Deep, brooding dark red with purple edges, this is flashier, sweeter and more glycerol rich, carrying a thick nose of ripe fruit, syrup and bacon bits, the style so much juicier after the brooding meat of the Grenache. This is the surprise lighter wine, the purple palate still savoury and spicy, but lifted by sweet alcohol and purple fruit juiciness. Another smart and authentic wine, if a smidgen behind the excellent GSM. Best drinking: 2017-2026. 17.8/20, 92/100. 14.2%, $30. Would I buy it? I’d enjoy a glass or two, probably more.