Bimbadgen’s quality has really kicked up a notch in recent years, particularly with the classic Hunter varieties of Hunter Semillon and Shiraz.

I think newish winemaker Rauri Donkin can take plenty of credit for that, a man who I used to drink shedloads of Belgian beer with back in the mid noughties when he was running a bar in Sydney’s north. Hi Rauri!

No bias here though, just good Semillon.  Actually, if you think that my Bimbadgen scores don’t correlate with the quality then call me on it – and same goes about any wine with perceived bias.

This serious style comes off the Palmers Lane vineyard. Lemon and grapefruit citrus, it’s initially quite broad and soft, before the finish tightens up into something much more firm and tautly acidic, even though the acidity tastes quite natural. That combo of generous fruit and then prominent acidity suggests time will be kind here, even though its just a bit simple for now. Long term style, with good lines, though has a bit too much of that Dispirin character for drinking right now. Best drinking: 2020-2030. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 11.2%, $50. Would I buy it? I’d like a few glasses in five years.