Bastard Hill. What a name. Evocative Aussie winemaking at its best. No surprises that this comes from a real bastard of a slope, with a 100m drop in altitude between the top and bottom of the vineyard.

Bloody hill, bloody steep.

Actually, it’s interesting to note the lack of a ‘Yarra Burn’ on the label. Hardy’s (with or without the apostrophe) is the main (name) game once again, and probably a smart move in the scheme of things (though Yarra Burn still exists as a fizz brand).

What’s not changed is the style – this could have been made a decade ago at the Yarra Burn peak. Golden green straw, it’s a ripe and old school style Chardonnay with honeycomb and butterscotch. The oak is a bit heavyhanded, the alcohol a presence through the finish – too much fiddling, not enough purity. For all that, the appeal here is the power and weight, complete with nutty lees flavours and oak richness.

Ultimately this has a place, even if it would be even better picked earlier. Drink: 2016-2020. 17.8/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $60. Would I buy it? Two glasses would do.