It doesn’t get much attention but there is a fair bit of Semillon in Mudgee, with Robert Stein, Huntington Estate, Burundulla and Bunnamagoo (amongst others) all releasing dry table examples, and even more producers make dessert style Sem. I imagine it’s a tough sell though (it is even in the Hunter), and this wine isn’t going to change anyone’s mind.

The challenge is just how tart and neutral this is. Yellow apple nose, the tight palate is all about citrus fruit and acidity, without much else. Long enough to promise a long cellaring future, but boring white wine now. Best drinking: 20120-2030. 16/20, 87/100+. 12%, $25. Would I buy it? Not quite.