After a couple of leaner years over the past few vintages it seems that The Wirra Wirra The 12th Man Chardonnay is now back to a rather more classically full flavoured Hills Chardie style – and likely for the better.

It smells of ripe fruit – of peaches in juice with icecream. This is the ripest 12th Man in years, really full and bouncy with plenty of peach fruit and alcohol sweetness. Still, the acidity is still there (carefully controlled malolactic fermentation no doubt), combining with a sunny personality to make some entirely delicious, if perhaps a little less complex.

This will please many. Best drinking: 2016-2020. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5%, $31.50. Would I buy this? I’d drink a few glasses.