Xabregas are one of the better proponents of off-dry Riesling in Oz, even though I prefer the less-sweet bottlings. This Xabregas X2 Riesling is classified as ‘sweet’ on the back label (according to the valuable IRF scale) and is deliberately released as a five year old, intended to live for much longer than that (and it should do that).

While this shows some development on the nose – toast and lemon – underneath it’s an infant. There’s no escaping the broad, sultana-like sweetness on the palate, which spreads out like a tide of fruit. That mouthfeel is delicious and enveloping, but this ultimately ends up just a fraction too sweet, even though there is clearly acidity behind it. A valid stab at a Kabinett style, though the balance isn’t quite right for big points. Saying that, time will probably introduce more complexity, and the sweetness will integrate further methinks. Drink: 2016-2030+. 16.5/20, 88/100+. 10.3%, $55. Would I buy it? I’d drink a glass.