For a quick Ottelia intro, start here. Riesling is the standout, the other three slightly underwhelming…

Ottelia Mount Gambier Riesling 2015

Sourced from the Ellis Family vineyard to the SW of Mt Gambier. Numbers: pH 2.9, TA 7.7g/L, RS 5.2g/L

Juicy lime and mango fruit – residual fruit sticks out just a little with a hint of candy. Chalky acid though a nice counterpoint, with gentle fruit. That acidity feels very citrussy, the fruit a little tropical, making for a good mix. Best drinking: 2016-2020. 17/20, 90/100. 11.6%, $22. Would I buy it? I’d go a glass or two.

Ottelia Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Sourced from 5 vineyards in Coonawarra, includes 9% Merlot. I was expecting more from this. Numbers: pH 3.57 TA 6.6.

Choc mint. Lots of mint. There’s classic Coonawarra flavours, but the astringent tannins and hard acidity is not much fun. It should improve, and the length is solid, but otherwise hard going. Best drinking: 2018-2024. 16/20, 87/100. 13.6%, $32. Would I buy it? No.

Ottelia Mount Gambier Chardonnay 2015

Mount Gambier fruit. 15% of the blend was barrel fermented and went through malo. Numbers: pH 3.23 TA 6.6g/L RS 1.8g/l.

White peach nose looks very much in the unwooded Chardonnay mode, but the milky palate bears the stamp of the oak. A quite lean style all said, with just oak and grapefruit acid on the palate. Not terrible, but underwhelming. Best drinking: 2016-2018. 16/20, 87/100. 12.9% $22

Ottelia Mount Gambier Sauvignon Blanc 2015

From the Ellis family vineyard. Grassy, aromatic style that is very much in the herbaceous Marlborough mode, complete with very firm acidity. Standard Sauv, all simple flavours and just a bit green, though not strictly unripe (numbers pH 3.18 TA 6.7g/L RS 4.8g/L). Best drinking: 2016. 15.5/20, 85/100. 12.8% $22. Would I buy it? No.