Still family-owned and kicking on strong 45 years later, Alkoomi are the ultimate quiet achievers. From what I understand all the fruit is estate-grown too, which is mighty impressive given the pricepoint(s).

This spent 12 months in (20% new) French oak. Dark ruby, as usual this is stridently varietal. Choc mint aplenty, it’s a drying and minty style that is long and cool, with a definitive minty,  just-ripe astringency and cassis aplenty.

Not without appeal, the longer you look at this the more defined and serious it looks. Plenty of flavour too. That astringent edge will be divisive, however. Best drinking: 2016-2028. 17/20, 90/100. 14.5%, $24. Would I buy it? I’d go a glass.