It was the Pinot Grigio that had me taking notice of Riversdale.

It stuck out – unexpectedly – amongst a middling lineup of Pinot Grigio and Gris like a beacon of hope and (varietally correct) flavour.

Now comes the super premium 2013 Riversdale Estate Crater Chardonnay, and it’s also a winner…

Picked by ‘Pelenc Selectiv Harvester’ which is quite a level of detail. Doesn’t mention what colour the harvester is though… Some batches of this wine were wild fermented and some inoculated, with frequent lees stirring and oak maturation with the best barrels going into this blend.

From the outset, this smells clever. Lightly grilled nuts, lemon and more – lots going on. Palate is a zippy number too, with an acidity profile you’d normally see in sparkling clones. Not unnatural acid though, and it doesn’t feel raw nor awkward, just long and dry, with lees and oak adding some layers into the mix.

This is very smart wine – a real sense of balance between sour acidity, white peach fruit richness and then winemaking adding extra interest, all making for a complete package. Would be an interesting pick up against a minerally style of Puligny (and would smash the village level wines accessible at this price point). Best drinking: 2016-2021. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $52. Would I buy it? Yes.