The Vinea Marson Viognier yesterday was a fair warmup, but it this Friulian blend that really impresses.

A blend of Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco according to the Vinea Marson website. Italian style. I like it), Malvasia d’Istria (AKA Malvasia) and Friulano, this is sourced from the Victorian Alpine Valleys, with the name a nod to Mario’s mother, Grazia.

Matured for six months in old barrel, the joy here is the contrast between textural richness and proper acidity, with a softly inviting nose of banoffee, and lemon, before a palate that starts softly, before expanding with a citrus edged textural richness and then a sharp bite to finish.

There’s something very alpine about the shape of this wine – the hint of herbs, the grapefruit tang of the acidity, plus some phenolic tang, all softened with clever barrel and lees work. I like this. Great value too. Best drinking: 2016-2018. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $24. Would I buy it? Sure would. This would be a natural pick off a list.