Galafrey Dry Grown Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

It’s easy to make generalisations when we see wine jargon. Whole bunch. Old vines. Dry grown. All of it fits in that space that sits between wine marketing and wine production, and all of it is frequently abused (e.g ‘we’re dry grown except for that week in January each year’).

Anyway, if there is one estate where I don’t doubt the authenticity it is Galafrey. Run by the ever enthusiastic Kim Tyrer, you can just taste the extra concentration of a genuine dry-grown vineyard here. Every single Galafrey release has an extra depth that suggests small berries, low yields and real flavour.

This Cabernet is a case in point. Mint. Dark chocolate, roasted plums. The whole kit and kaboodle. Deep and hearty, there is a substantial-ness to this which is undoubtedly attractive. Sure, it’s not polished, and the eucalypt hints, raw tannins and sappy finish are anything but dainty. Yet the real-life, real-fruit and really structured nature of this hearty red makes you want to come back for a second glass.

Substantial cool clime Cabernet that will live for many many choc-minty years yet.Best drinking: 2016-2030. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 14.5%, $30. Would I buy it? I’d go a few glasses now, more in five years time.