Classic Barossa: Soul Growers Slow Grown Barossa Shiraz 2014

Soul Growers Slow Grown Barossa Shiraz 2014

Archetypal Barossa Shiraz.

I’ve always appreciated the dense, powerful, yet savoury Soul Growers style and no departure with this ’14 Slow Grown Shiraz. It’s delicious. Old school delicious (but not crusty old school. Just traditional).

Classic winemaking too. Open ferment, basket pressing and bottled without fining or filtration. Proper Shiraz winemaking. Comes in a big heavy bottle and DIAM cork, just to emphasis the old school (in a good way) nature.

No surprises that this is deeply coloured. Thick purple red, the smudge on the side of the bottle a nod to the unfined nature. It smells of red berries in red dust, of cocoa powder and bricks. The palate, too, is framed by the sort of deepset powdery oak that you only get with proper toasty oak, the palate punctuated by caramel, almost sour savoury red berries and then slightly tart acidity to finish.

Oh yes, this is as much a wine of barrels as it is wine. But that texture, the grainy, dark dusty berries and the satisfying chew are timeless. No shortage of appeal right there.

Easy to ignore a wine like this – and some may not enjoy a deep and hearty style. But its so long, with a savoury texture and firm endless length (if just a little sharp to finish) that is mighty attractive.

Big yes from me.

Best drinking: 2016-2030. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $55. Would I buy it? Sure would.