It’s bloody hot here in Sydney today, and more like Riesling drinking weather than anything heavier/richer. These two sharply defined Yarra Chardies though have the zip and freshness that you need on a night like this, even if an ice cold ale is required for warmup.
Burton & McMahon is the collaborative label of Matt Burton (Gundog Estate) & Dylan McMahon (Seville Estate) that focuses upon premium, single vineyard Victorian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I reviewed the Pinot duo a little while back and now it’s the Chardonnay turn.
As ever, the fun here is to look at two wines that are treated the same and separated only by terroir.
Winemaking-wise we’re looking at handpicked fruit, whole bunch pressing direct to barrel with all solids, wild ferment in barrel, no malo and 10 months in 30% new French oak barrels.
Slick handling, swish wines. Maybe too swish – must love acidity – but I like the vitality and style.
Burton McMahon D’Aloisio’s Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015
The D’Aloisio Vineyard lies in the Seville township on a north facing slope at 230m asl. Red volcanic soils. pH 3.13. TA 7.2g/L. 180 dozen made. Delicate and shaped by acidity. Acidity at every corner. White peach and almond meal oak in a super refined and delicate style. There’s a dancing lightness to this which marks it as almost sparkling base-like, yet it’s not hard. Just elegant lightness. Perhaps a fraction lean, but there is an effortlessness to this that is easily appealing. Caution: Don’t overchill. Best drinking: 2017-2023. 13.2%, $30. 18/20, 93/100. Would I buy it? I sure would. Well priced for such quality.
Burton McMahon George’s Chardonnay 2015
From the George’s Vineyard in Seville East. North facing and 180m asl with grey loam soils. pH 3.2. TA 6.6g/L.
Richer and fuller than the D’Aloisio with a flash of yellow peach. But it tightens on the finish. Nowhere near the delicacy of the other wine, the richness of the fruit just a little disjointed with firm grapefruit acidity. A little malo could have gone a long way. Still, this is carefully coiffed, modern Yarra Chardonnay with quality fruit and winemaking. Best drinking: 2016-2022. 12.9%, $30. 17.7/20, 92/100. Would I buy it? This is good, but I’d take the D’Aloisio instead.
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