R. Lane Vintners Westgate Vineyard Grampians Shiraz 2014

When you’re presented with absolute primo fruit you’ve got to go ‘all out’. To really think ‘how can I make the best bloody wine I can’. No shortcuts. Nothing but net.

This new Shiraz from Rory Lane (Story Wines) is such a beast.

Rory has been using fruit from the Westgate Vineyard in the Grampians for many years, calling it ‘consistently and unquestionably the highest quality grape source for the Story Wines over the twelve years I have made wine from the region‘. In 2014, despite yields of ‘a tonne and a bit’ Rory has turned out something special – A  Shiraz he calls ‘the best wine I have made to date… (a wine) I am proud to put my name to.‘

Wild fermented with 60% whole bunches, this is immediately a different wine from previous Story Wines Westgate Shiraz. Rather than the usual plum, there is more white pepper, the aromatics juiced like never before. Blind you’d be forgiven calling this ’15 Yarra rather than ’14 Grampians. Every bit the Syrah mode. Still, underneath it’s driving and tannic, the fruit peaking out to show it’s there, the wine packing an uncommon ‘I’ll live forever’ length. That balance is the clincher – the acidity natural, the mid-weight form unhurried too. I left the bottle in the fridge and 5 days later it was still tight and taut.

Top tier Aussie ‘Syrah’ no matter how you look at it. Best drinking: 2020-2030. 18.5/20, 94/100+. 14%, $75. Would I buy it? I’d drink a bottle and wouldn’t mind some in the cellar at all.