Dodgy Bros. Sellicks Foothills Shiraz 2015

Wes Pearson & crew’s original McLaren Vale Shiraz, sourced from two vineyards in the Sellicks Foothills in McLaren Vale. Big red country down there, and this is typically mouthfilling.

There’s a big blast of inky (great word) cooked plum fruit with just a hint of the warmth that lies beneath, complemented by background vanilla and licorice as a side salad.

No surprises to see all that intensity on the palate, which has no shortage of volume, the style decadent, slightly too bold, but very smooth, and delivering big gob fulls of warm fruit.

Occasionally too much, too ripe, too concentrated, but that’s also part of the style, as this has heart and real richness. For the dollars? Over delivers in a massive way.

Best drinking: 2019-2030. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $25. Would I buy it? A glass is probably enough for me.