Even Keel Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015

Even Keel is the second label of Mornington producer Polperro, which apparently has cellar door yoga classes. Diverse. Sam Coverdale’s wines are pretty handy too.

Wild fermented, and bottled without fining or filtration and minimal sulphur. Very much the minimal intervention wine it is too, a cloudy red colour with just a little volatility. This style needs oxygen and a good half hour in the glass improves things greatly. Underneath it’s all sweet and sour red fruits, a hint of sausage and a briney edge. Funky, but not ugly.

Good modern Pinot this. It’s not the squeaky clean bright style, instead offering complexity and savoury interest. Long too.  Worth a punt, though I’d open it next year personally. Best drinking: 2018-2023. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 13.5%, $35. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.