Almost there: Shaw + Smith Pinot Noir 2015

Shaw + Smith Pinot Noir 2015

The push towards more elegance in the Shaw + Smith Pinot continues.

This, arguably, goes a fraction too far in the early picking stakes, but only just. Making elegant Pinot in the Adelaide Hills is tricky because the ripeness tends to always come with heaviness, which means that unless the planets align you end up making fine, lean, but rather bony light bodied Pinot, or something more dry reddish and less elegant but with richness. That balancing act is bloody hard, and only Ashton Hills seem to consistently nail it. Shaw + Smith – with the uber talented Adam Wadewitz at the helm – are certainly giving it a good shot lately though, and each vintage it gets closer to the ideal.

Slightly cloudy cherry ruby red (minimal filtering/fining, good), this looks fresh and vital. The whole wine has a freshness to it really, even if the bones are showing – particularly through the finish, which can’t quite kick off the slight bitterness. Still, it’s Pinot and the bitterness isn’t intrusive. The acidity is prominent too, but it’s not hard or tart, just there.

Overall that fresh, early picked elegance has lots of appeal, even if it just a little angular. Masterfully made wine though that will be even better in 12 months time. Best drinking: 2018-2023. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 12.5%, $46. Would I buy it? A glass, maybe 2.