Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay 2015

Know what makes this exceptional Chardonnay great? Fantastic attention to detail.

It starts with the written tasting notes accompanied my sample bottle. Two sheets of succinct words, printed on shiny, heavy stock, with no bullshit – just what is needed. And why not? You don’t need to ‘sell it’ when the wine is great, only facts.

Indeed, this Chardonnay nails it. The Tolpuddle Vineyard was originally planted for sparkling grapes, and this vintage has a blanc de blancs like freshness, the flavours exquisitely precise. It’s a Chardonnay that perfectly cavorts with what is ‘enough’ ripeness, delivering something delicate, emphatically pure and ultra-lean, yet stopping short of the annoying anaemia that plagues many Australian Chardies.

Superb wine.

If anything, some will find the acidity here too much. Chablis is the analogue, but this has more white peach fruit compared to Chablis’ stoniness. And the more you look, the more you can see that this is not unripe – just perfectly formed. It’s a newborn in many ways (and will be even better in 6 months), but everything about it is exceptional. Great already and bound for stardom. Best drinking: 2017-2022. 18.7/20, 95/100+. 12.5%, $67. Would I buy it? In a heartbeat. Would out-finesse many Grand Cru Chablis that are double the price.