From the dozen or so wines I’ve tried, I’m delighted to pronounce that 2017 is a great vintage for South Australian Riesling.

Ultra late, cool and sometimes damp, it was a season just made for sprightly Riesling, and the best makers capitalised.

These two have passed the desk recently and look sensational. I’ve got more in the pipeline over the next week or so too.

Rieslingfreak No.10 Zenit Riesling 2017

A one off. An oddity. Never again. This wine was made to celebrate John Hughes’ – the Rieslingfreak – upcoming wedding to partner Belinda Sinclair. He’s a legend too, with an unwavering passion for Riesling that is really paying off. Here, we see a ‘best of’ release that includes 50% Clare Valley, 40% Eden Valley and 10% Polish Hill River fruit. There’s an interesting contrast here – hints of riper fruit in amongst more classical grapefruit. Excellent intensity, very linear. Maybe a little too driving in its chugging acidity – it could scare some off with its dryness. But such excellent purity, with plenty of ripe fruit to match. Just delicious wine. Best drinking: 2017-whenever. 18.5/20, 94/100. 11.5%, $45. Would I buy it? Absolutely.

Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Riesling 2017

From two frost pocketed vineyards at Mt. McKenzie & Craneford. Water clear this is such a cool, tense and reserved style, the nose all white flowers and a dash of talc with some rosewater at the edges. A powerful, grippy and intensely dry wine with an almost Gewürz like zip of dry extract, and finishing with a steam train of acidity. Feel the power! This is such good, wildly floral and long Eden Rizza. And for $25? Buy all you can. Best drinking: 2017-2040. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.5%, $25. Would I buy it? Oh yes!