Chateau Petit Village 1998

Chateau Petit Village 1998

I want to love Pomerol more. I like Merlot, and there’s something noble about the singular focus of the region on Merlot dominant styles. Yet the inconsistency of this appellation is frustrating – and there’s a big gap between the finest wines and the tiers below it. Still, there is charm to be had, even though they’re not immediately convincing wines.

This wine, from a middling vintage, is probably not the best wine to prove a point. I enjoyed a glass anyway, if that counts. Immediately it’s regional, with plenty of leather, porcini mushrom and truffle. It’s a mature nose, but not decaying. Underneath, this has a soft richness of fruit, the flavours all secondary, the tannins still surprisingly astringent to finish.

What’s charming though is the expansive, earthen mid palate, which ultimately makes for a gently satisfying, savoury drink, even if it lacks the flow and power to be truly convincing. It’s not sublime, but this is such pleasant booze. Best drinking: Good now and for another five years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $?. Would I buy it? Not really. But enjoyed my single glass.