Bellvale Athena’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2015

From the Ellis families dry-grown Gippsland family vineyard. There’s an intensity here that you often see in dry-grown vineyards – like the grapes hit another gear in the flavour-per-berry stakes. For all the extra power, this seems just a fraction too forward, the colour golden, the nutty nose a nod to the concentration with hay and straw along with the peach fruit. Palate has an oxidative edge as well, carrying more honeyed peach fruit and a soft, gentle finish. Lots of complexity and density here, but it feels just a little too broad to be great.

Best drinking: Now. 17/20, 90/100. 13.2%, $35. Would I buy it? A glass.