Shaw + Smith Pinot Noir 2017

I’m happy to be proven wrong (and Ashton Hills does it regularly), but I still don’t see Adelaide Hills as a prime Pinot Noir region. Good wines, yes, but not great. Not like Hills Chardonnay or even Hills Shiraz for that matter. Still, Shaw + Smith do it better than nearly anyone, and this 2017 is another quality release.

That late vintage – and judicious early picking – has delivered a cool and elegant red, with a lucid, red cherry palate that is only medium bodied, lightly herbal and nice and fragrant. Imperceptible oak and all fruit, it’s a very pretty wine. But is it just a bit too lean? Is that quest for elegance at the expensive of true palate weight? Classy wine at every turn regardless.

Best drinking: Now, and will be in a good place for at least five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.5%, $47. Would I buy it? I’d go a few glasses at least.