I love great Viognier.

Textural, viscous, rich, barrel matured Viognier is absolutely delicious. But so much V weed is underwhelming, ordinary, and either under or overripe. Too much. Too often.

But this Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2018 is good. It’s better than good, it’s a really enjoyable drink, far above its $15 station. It’s generous, it’s heavy with apricot and nectarine and peach skin and with a phenolic tang. There isn’t the layers of a super premium Condrieu (no oak for a start) and it’s not profound. But the intensity and conviction of the flavours is enough to make you do a pricetag double take. I’m a fan.

Best drinking: Now and for another year or two. 13.5%, $15. 17.5/20, 91/100. Would I buy it? Sure would.